Floating Gardens of Xochimilco and La Isla de las Muñecas (The Island of the Dolls)

The canals are some of the last remnants of pre-hispanic Mexico city. Tenochtitlan and later Mexico City were built on swampy islands and reclaimed land. The basis of farming to feed the masses of these cities became “chinampas” or floating gardens. The gardens were formed by hammering juniper poles into the canals to create a scaffolding, then dumping earth into the structure until it displaced the water and became a reclaimed island. The water and fertile floating islands provided crops for the populations, and even continues to this day to a lesser extent.

The canals are traversed by boarding colourful canal barges called “trajineras”, all with their own unique names and patterns. There are numerous launching points, called Embarcaderos, and various advice regarding the best locations and also times and days.

On my first visit in 2019, I chose to depart from Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas Xochimilco. I took the metro to Universidad, and took an Uber to the Embarcadero as I was traveling with multiple people. I read instructions regarding the light rail from the metro, but we decided in the essence of time that an Uber would suffice. Interesting to note, the driver told us to ensure our doors were locked and not to open our windows on the journey, as there were motorcycle gangs looking to snatch phones and bags on those streets.

I had limited time during this trip, and I ended up only having Sunday morning free. I had read that Sunday was the worst time to go, due to the influx of locals causing boat traffic, but I wouldn’t let that sway your decision. Due to timing, and a delayed start, we arrived at 12:00 and chose to only have an hour on the boat. As many people have noted, a good amount of time is spent getting out of the boat traffic. For a true experience I’d suggest at least two hours, and if you are wanting to visit the island of the dolls an hour won’t suffice. Around the Embarcadero you’ll see many references to Axolotls (Mexican walking fish), often in cartoon form. This is a main location of Axolotls in the wild, and although you’re unlikely to see any, they are there.

We walked to the Embarcadero and simply asked for a boat for an hour. The price of MXN500 per hour was standard (in 2019), and although apparently open to negotiation, I chose to simply pay the asking price. We walked across the parked barges to the boat that we were taking and set off. We had our own boat for the four of us and weren’t pushed to join other people. The journey involved being punted North along the canals, weaving in and out of the barges moving slowly North and South. We were joined by a dog for a while, who then made his way to other barges when we collided (gently) and then eventually made it to dry land.

We past trajineras with full mariachi bands playing (for cash) and enjoyed witnessing the different songs as we weaved between the craft. We were asked if we wanted to hire any, and we declined. As we floated, we were approached by canoes selling food and drinks. I purchased a cob of corn (elotes), but there were numerous other options. You are able to stop and get off at various islands if you desire. There are islands growing flowers, available for purchase, but we were happy to just float. We tipped our young captains as they were fun and great translators, and genuinely took good care of us.

La Isla de las Muñecas (The Island of the Dolls)

I had seen La Isla de las Muñecas (The Island of the Dolls) on a few TV shows over the years, including on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations (s05E01), and had read enough to know it was an experience I wanted to have.

As per advised, we headed to the Embarcadero Cuemanco via a metro ride to Lomas Estrella station followed by a quick uber trip.  When I repeated the trip in 2022, we just took an uber from our hotel due to time and comfort for our group.

Once arriving at the embarcadero, I found the information booth with the tour lists and prices, explained that I wanted to visit La Isla de las Muñecas.  I was posed with a question at this point if I wanted to go to the “real” island or the “pirated” version, which is a new homage being built a lot closer to the embarcadero for shorter trips.  I chose the original island, which was a 5 hour trip.  Of course, this depends on how long you spend on the island and how many extra stops you take, if any.

The original island and the fake one are both on google maps so you should be able to ensure that you are taken to the correct one.  There was even a third island with some dolls that I noticed in 2022.

The legend of La Isla de las Muñecas revolves around the original owner, by Don Julián Santana Barrera, who became obsessed with the drowning death of a young girl who became entangled in water lilies.  He claimed to have heard her calling for her doll.  After this traumatic experience, dolls began to appear on the island.  The Don Julián Santana Barrera became obsessed with curating the dolls and dedicated his life to the island.  His descendants now run the island.

Local legends say that the dolls can be heard whispering to each other, calling to local boat to visit the island and moving their arms and opening their eyes.

The price for the 5 hour punt round trip to the island was MXN3000 in 2022 (up from MXN2500 in 2020).  The journey is slow and relaxing.  Ensure that you have water and let your captain know if you wish to stop at any of the random islands along the way.  Depending on the day and time, there will be other boats offering fruit, corn and drinks.  Alcoholic drinks used to be sold, but they were restricted due to the amount of people drunkenly falling in the water (I was told).

Our trip took about an hour to get to the island, but we were one of three trajineras heading out that afternoon.  Busier times will take longer to get away from the crowd.

Once arriving at The Island of the Dolls, you are charged entry to the island (I think it was MXN45 each).  You can then walk around, admiring the terrifying dolls and see old photos of Don Julián Santana Barrera with his island.  There are often a couple of dogs to say hello.  There is a toilet and a little refreshment stand with drinks and alcohol (including home distilled spirits).

A normal person likely needs 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the level of interest and uneasiness.

Once you have seen all the dolls, making sure to see the original doll, you can leave the island and head back on the boat.  The journey back is about an hour and change.  Be on the lookout for snakes swimming.  Before the last straight stretch to the embarcadero, there is a larger open area often populated by pelicans.

If you were happy with your journey, you can tip your guide.